Far away from the party hub and city buzz of Hvar lies Jelsa, a charming town that offers historic churches, crystalline bays, and stunning seaside vistas.

How to get here:

Take a Jarilinja ferry or catamaran from Split, which leave daily at 1600 and 1630 respectively (weekdays)

Where to stay:

Stay close to the city center chez Marija Huljic,  where she and her daughter rent out clean and pristine rooms with beautiful balcony views. The affordable ensuite apartments are atop a small hill and just a few minutes’ walk to town.

Where to eat:

Pelago is a local favorite, offering fresh fish and pasta dishes daily, along with fine Croatian wine. Try the fish filet au gratin (with potatoes) and get here early,  as it gets quite packed during evenings.

Turan restaurant offers up similar dishes with a Mediterranean twist.  The black squid ink risotto hit the spot after a long day of mountain biking through the nearby villages.

What to do:

Jelsa is the perfect place to unwind and relax. Explore the local bays and beaches (Mina Bay came highly recommended), or take your feet or bike towards nearby Vrboska 4 km away to see gorgeous seafront views.  

Charming,  isn’t it?