On Wednesday Taw, his lovely assistant Em, and I headed back to Crazy Horse Buttress to continue my self-rescue course.
I learned how to: escape the belay with a munter mule knot, transfer the load from my hip to the anchor using a cordelette and munter mule knot, wrap down to my ‘victim’, create a chest harness leveraging slings, lockers, and my PAS, ascend using a prusik and cordelette, and wrap down again to said victim to rappel together using a cordelette and klemheist hitch. Admittedly, my knots need some work, so I found some of it quite confusing and complex. But hopefully the above photo showcases some of my learnings, and ‘victim’.
After the lesson, I got a bit of climbing in, and managed to onsight my first Chiang Mai chimney, Chimney Sweep 6a (5.10a):
I ended up a bit too deep into the chimney during the crux move, but down climbed my way out with Taw’s beta.