Self-Rescue Course, Day 2


On Wednesday Taw, his lovely assistant Em, and I headed back to Crazy Horse Buttress to continue my self-rescue course.

I learned how to: escape the belay with a munter mule knot, transfer the load from my hip to the anchor using a cordelette and munter mule knot, wrap down to my ‘victim’, create a chest harness leveraging slings, lockers, and my PAS, ascend using a prusik and cordelette, and wrap down again to said victim to rappel together using a cordelette and klemheist hitch. Admittedly,  my knots need some work, so I found some of it quite confusing and complex. But hopefully the above photo showcases some of my learnings, and ‘victim’.

After the lesson,  I got a bit of climbing in, and managed to onsight my first Chiang Mai chimney,  Chimney Sweep 6a (5.10a):



I ended up a bit too deep into the chimney during the crux move,  but down climbed my way out with Taw’s beta.

Fun stuff.

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